Preparation
Measuring is very important when ordering sod!
For Measuring instructions please click here.
Prepare the ground with these goals in mind:
- Good drainage
- Smooth contours for even growth
- Remove high spots or ruts for mower wheels, as this will cause scalping.
- Good topsoil
You should slope the ground away from buildings and grade to one inch
below
driveway or sidewalk level.
Note: Grass bordering driveway or side walk can be mowed with the rest of
the lawn and will not need special edging or use of a weed eater if this advice
is followed. Do not leave dips or low spots. They will prevent run-off during the
rainy season.
Ordering Turf:
We suggest you call us one week before you want to lay your sod. This
helps
us to time your order carefully. Cancellations can be accepted only up
to 24
hours before delivery. Remember, your sod is cut just prior to delivery
or just
before you come to pick it up.
Topsoil
Well drained fertile loam is the
ideal soil for lawns. Sandy or gravelly soils dry
out too quickly. Heavy
clays are hard to work, and may become water logged
and compacted. If
your soil is unsuitable, you may need to buy good topsoil,
but most
topsoil is useable. Heavy topsoil can be improved by adding sand
or
organic matter, or both. Clay or silt and organic matter can be added if
the
topsoil is too light.
Soil Improvers
Any available organic matter can
be used to enhance the quality of your topsoil.
There are several
sources of organic matter. The one to use depends upon
local
availability and cost.
Commonly recommended soil improvers:
- Mushroom manure, well rotted
- Chicken manure with sawdust, should be composted
- Peat moss
- Peat and sand mixture
- Any readily available compost
After adding topsoil and/or soil improvers, bring entire yard to a
rough grade, be sure to distribute the improved topsoil evenly over
the entire yard. Generously apply lime. Use three times the amount
recommended for an established lawn.
Roto-till the soil to a depth of 4 to 6 inches. Finish grading:
- Start ground leveling by raking the high spots into the lower
areas. A home made float (a 6 x 6
beam with a rope attached) will
work if the soil has been well prepared. Use a string line to
check
ground levels.
- Roll the soil lightly during the early stages of preparation. This
will show up variations in ground
level. Continue to rake and roll
until the contours are smooth and all high and low spots have
been
removed.
- When you rake and grade, remove debris such as old sod, plants and
rocks. Stones less
than one inch in diameter can be left 'when you
are laying turf.
Installation
Note: Sod should be laid as soon as
possible after delivery, especially in hot
weather. The quicker the sod is transplanted the better your lawn will
look.
You should never leave turf rolled up for more than 1 or 2 days after
delivery.
Laying the Sod:
-
Apply root fertilizer
uniformly to the prepared ground just before laying the sod. We
recommend a
high phosphate root starter such as 10-20-10 (we supply free starter
fertilizer with each sod order).
-
Next, moisten the soil. Your
turf will root on damp soil more than twice as fast as it will on
dry soil.
-
Next, moisten the soil. Your
turf will root on damp soil more than twice as fast as it will on
dry soil.
• Lay the first row of sod on a straight line along a curb, driveway
or taut string. Make sure that ends
are butted close together - but not overlapping. Indent the second
row from the first like brickwork.
Avoid stretching the sod because it shrinks on drying, and leaves
spaces that are easily invaded by
weeds. When all the sod has been laid, roll it with a lawn roller to
ensure good contact between the
sod and the soil beneath.
-
If the ground is very soft,
use sheets of plywood or wide planks to spread your weight to
prevent
sinking in. Roll the lawn when the ground is firmer.
-
Water thoroughly and do not
allow the sod to dry out (please note that you may have to water
during
the course of the installation). If the sod is laid in mid-summer,
it should be watered lightly at noon
each day for a week or two in warm dry weather to prevent excessive
loss of moisture from the grass.
At least until the roots have taken hold and begun to draw moisture
from the soil below.